Aquarium Equipment
| Filtration Systems |
| Biological |
| Mechanical |
| Chemical |
| Heaters |
| Submersible |
| Hang-on |
| Titanium - with controller |
| Heater Modules - Compatible with most submersible heaters |
| Lighting |
| VHO |
| Fluorescent and Incandescent |
| Power Compacts |
| High-Tech Equipment |
| Foods/Auto Feeders |
| Miscellaneous |
Fish & Coral (if available)
(Click here)
|
Tips For Setting Up The Marine
System |
|
Water temperature |
|
Specific gravity |
Recommended Equipment Needed:
-
Aquarium Lights Light Timer Salt Mix Sand Live Rock Protein Skimmer Power Filter (optional) Algae Scraper Sump and/or Refugium (optional pieces of aquarium equipment) Quarantine Tank Power heads (multiple) Food (depends on what you plan on keeping in your reef aquarium) Thermometer Heater Test Kits (chlorine, pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate, calcium, alkalinity, iodine) Reverse Osmosis filter for make up water or even better an RO/DI (deionization) filter. Hydrometer or refractometer 2 Five Gallon Buckets (clean and for fish tank only use) Fish, Corals and other Invertebrates Macro Algae such as chaetomorpha or gracilaria, for use in the refugium
Advice from expert
Phase 1 - Prepare your aquarium water
Set up the aquarium and install all
filtration equipment. Fill the aquarium with
freshwater that has ideally been treated by reverse
osmosis.
If you must use untreated city water, add a quality liquid de-chlorinator to remove chlorine from the water.
Next, add salt by carefully following the instructions on the salt mix. Use a hydrometer to monitor and raise salinity to the desired level.
Install the aquarium heater and set to the desired temperature.
Allow the system to run for a few days to ensure a constant water temperature and proper operation of all equipment.
Phase 2 - Building your aquarium foundation
After your aquarium has run
successfully for a few days, start building your
"oundation of aragonite-based substrate and live
rock.
You should also consider adding 2-3 inches of live sand, which seeds the sand bed with beneficial bacteria and micro-organisms.
Phase 3 - Add lighting and an
Algae Attack Pack
Once your live rock has fully cured,
and the biological filtration is mature, you can add
your aquaria. As a final precaution before
adding aquaria, test your ammonia and nitrite levels.
At this time, you should also set up your lighting system with a common appliance timer set to illuminate the aquarium 10-12 hours per day.
Phase 4 - Begin adding fish and
invertebrates
After you've cured your live rock,
illuminated your aquarium, and taken care of any
subsequent algae blooms, your aquarium is ready for
fish and invertebrates. Before adding any fish be sure you're familiar
with any compatibility issues that may exist among
your desired species.
Phase 5 - Add a Detritus Attack Pack
Now that you've established your aquarium and added fish
and invertebrates, you should add a Detritus Attack
Pack to help maintain healthy water parameters. The
invertebrates in these attack packs feed on leftover
food and waste from fish and other invertebrates. If
insufficient detritus-eating invertebrates are
present, the unconsumed food and waste will ultimately
serve as nutrients for unwanted algae. Simply choose
the Detritus Attack Pack that fits the size of your
aquarium.
In Conclusion
It is our hope that the above steps
helped to simplify and demystify the process of
successfully setting up and stocking your marine
aquarium. With the proper setup, diligence, patience,
and care, your saltwater aquarium and its inhabitants
will thrive while you enjoy a beautiful, fascinating
ocean setting.
If you need assistance with your aquarium, please feel free to contact us.


